A while ago, I saw a tutorial on how to create purity stamp molds with Green Stuff so you can continue making your own purity stamps. I thought it was an excellent idea since I play Black Templars and they like to stick that stuff all over the place. So I needed a lot of them.
I think the original tutorial I looked at was on Portent maybe. But since I was working on it tonight, I thought I’d take some photos and go over it for anyone who’s interested, basically remaking the original in my own words and with my own little additions that I discovered. overtime. But I can’t take credit for the idea. And I’m pretty sure this doesn’t break any of the GW rules because there was something like this in a White Dwarf magazine about how to create your own purity stamps using a GS mold, but the way they did it was bullshit, This is better. Anyway, here you go.
Mold making tutorial
First, get yourself something green, a coin, some oil, and something that has a flat, hard surface. Green Stuff is available at most hobby stores, I use GW stuff, just because that’s what I’m used to. Coin … well, there should be one in your pocket. I use vegetable oil because that’s what I had available. I would have preferred to use olive oil because it tastes better and if I ever felt like eating my molds it would be tastier. I used an empty spice container and poured some oil in there, that way I can keep it on my work desk without my mom blowing a gasket. As for a hard flat surface? I’m not sure, basically what you can find. I used a plastic coin that I won in a painting contest (it was part of the prize, I could hand it out at the hobby store for a free can of soda) and then I used sandpaper to sand one side down until it was completely flat.
Oh, and of course you also need the original plastic purity seal or whatever you use. Without that, you’ll only have a greasy, nasty green nickel.
Step 1
The first thing to do is take an old paintbrush or cotton swab and coat the hard plastic surface with oil. This will be your Squisher. Make a nice little ball of Green Stuff and place it in the middle coin. Don’t put oil on the GS or the coin, the point of the oil is that nothing sticks, but you want the GS to stick to the coin, right? Then grab your Squisher and … um … smash the GS flat and even onto the coin. You don’t want it to be too thin, because you’ll need to be deep enough for the purity seal to set on it, so don’t squish it, just a nice, even squash.
Step 2
Now that you are done with the GS mold coin, re-coat your Squisher and the surface of the GS with oil. You don’t want the Squisher to stick to the GS when you Squish. Attach your purity seals (or any other small “one side” flat bit) to the GS. I usually take a toothpick and press the Purity Seals into the GS a bit so they won’t budge when you go to crush them, but you don’t have to do that. I’m just an anal bastard. Anyway, once you have the Purity Seals on the GS, smash it. Don’t get out of hand, you’re just pressing the bit into the GS enough so that the surface of the GS is roughly flush with the back of the Purity Seals, but even if you let the Purity Seals go a bit above from the surface, okay, you will only have a shallower PS when it comes down to making copies.
Step 3
Go ahead and wash your Squisher and leave the coin / GS and Purity Seals as is for an hour or two. If you try to remove the stamps too early, you will spoil the image pressed on the GS because it is too smooth. Let it harden a bit and once that happens you can take out the Purity Seals plastic seals. I’ll use the tip of my hobby knife or a toothpick, it doesn’t matter, just something small so it doesn’t mess up the mold while you’re trying to get the plastics out. I’ve heard some people say to leave them as they are overnight, so that’s safe, but I’ve never considered it necessary. In fact, sometimes Purity Seals plastic seals will get stuck in green material if you let it get too hard … so an hour or two, try carefully to remove the plastics and if they seem to come off easily, splendid, but yes. no and you’re indenting the GS, stop and wait a bit longer.
It’s hard to see the Purity Seals plastic seals on the GS because the oil reflected the flare, but if you look closely you can see the 4 PS I used.
Step 4
Once you’ve taken out your original Purity Seals plastic seals, all you have to do is wait until the GS dries completely (I usually wait until the next day), then rinse off the oil. Now you have a mold and you are ready to start making Purity Seals!
These are some of the molds that I have created. If you look at the top of the image you can see two molds in white little things. Those were a thin piece of small plastic tubing that I cut in half. So because there was a curved flat surface, I was able to mold the scrolls hanging from the shoulder pads and the crotch area, the loincloth. For a Squisher, I used the plug that went into the original tubing, just a small plastic cylinder that was the perfect size to crush it evenly. Glad I figured out how to do that, I really wanted more of those things for my Black Templars.
And that is! Easy right? It all takes around 3 minutes and you can easily make a ton of Purity Seals in one afternoon.
Well now you have your mold, what the hell do you do with it? Make purity seals! Tiny!
You will need your mold, your Squisher and a ball of Green Stuff.
Step 1
Coat the surface of the mold and the surface of your Squisher with oil. Place the ball of GS in the mold over the indentation of the Seal of Purity.
Step 2
Smash it! Again, don’t go crazy, just make sure it’s even. You can thin with this because you don’t need a thick enough coat to be able to put on a purity seal, you just need enough GS to fill the purity seal hole. So you don’t need a lot of GS. Personally, I use a little more GS than I think is enough, just in case it’s no enough. I don’t want to end up with an angry Purity Seal. My Black Templars are pimps, they don’t wear shoddy accessories.
Step 3
Wait thirty minutes, maybe an hour or so, then you can take the GS out of the mold. If you do it too early it will warp the shape of the Purity Seal because the soft GS has been pulled out, but if it is hard enough when you pull it out then you won’t have a problem. Set it aside and let it sit for a bit (I usually leave it until the next day). Next, wash the oil off the GS Purity Seal piece, then go back to your crazy lab and cut the extra GS around the Purity Seal. You may need to shave the back of the Purity Seals because they will come out too thick. If you have used more GS then it is harder to crush it. Not a big deal, just a pain in the neck to have to shave the back of the tiny Purity Seals. I’ve had to do that often, like I said, I use a little more GS than normal and have no idea how I haven’t cut my finger yet. Hope my luck continues.
There are some of the things I did with GS and with a little time and effort you can clearly see that GS bitz look like normal plastic ones.
